Sends And Suffers

Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!

Craig Demartino lost his leg in a climbing accident one would we think this traumatic experience would make you stop climbing. However, Craig has dived deeper into climbing, now he has created a place on the island of Puerto Rico that is inclusive and accessible for climbers from all walks of life. In this episode, we talk about how he lost his leg, returned to climbing, and ultimately thrived.

Craig Demartino lost his leg in a climbing accident one would we think this traumatic experience would make you stop climbing. However, Craig has dived deeper into climbing, now he has created a place on the island of Puerto Rico that is inclusive and accessible for climbers from all walks of life. In this episode we talk about how he lost his leg, how he came back to climbing, and ultimately has thrived. 

I am absolutely honored to have the opportunity to speak with Nikki Smith, she is single-handedly one of the most well-known individuals in the climbing industry and is a sheer force of nature that champions inclusivity, equality, and access to the sport that we all love. She's not shy about letting us know the very tools that we use to be successful at this sport are the very same ones that can be repurposed to change the sport and make it better for everyone. I hope you enjoy this episode as much as I did please leave us a comment of what you thought of this episode and follow like and subscribe and share with your community.

Nikki Smith (she/her) is a climber, photographer, athlete, and much more, all while being an inspiration to me and so many other trans climbers out there. I had this conversation with Nikki at the Flash Foxy Climbing festival in March 2022. We talk about: how she started climbing, the harms of gender norms, her photography, and her experiences as a trans climber.

Cat Runner (he/him) is a climber, artist, photographer, and founder of the Queer Climbers Network. I had this conversation with Cat at the Flash Foxy Climbing festival in March 2022. We talk about: transitioning as a teen in the south, our favorite types of climbing, and how being uncomfortable & vulnerable helps us grow as human beings.

Claire Larson (she/her) is a Mountain Athlete, Scarpa AMI Alumni & Peer Mentor, All In Ice Fest Participant Coordinator, who also happens to be a trans woman. I had this talk with Claire in April 2021. We talk about Ice Climbing, her passion for other mountain sports, trauma around being trans, finding yourself, and ways to make the climbing community more accepting.

Samuel Crossley (he/they) is a talented filmmaker, photographer, and one of the first gay creatives I discovered when I started climbing. I had this conversation with Sam in March 2021. We talk about climbing, homophobia, being a creative, working on Free Solo, and much more.

When Wild Bill and I first met, it was bromance at first sight. I was lured in by his illustrious mustache, and then his personality sealed the deal once we got talking. Wild Bill is a downhill ski youth program coach in Salt Lake City. I love talking shop with coaches and discussing how they interact with and train their athletes. No one's got it all figured out, and everyone has a unique touch. Enjoy the episode and special edition duet! I'm now considering a professional singing career...what are your thoughts?

Ellis Whitson started coaching and climbing well over a decade ago. In that time, he cultivated the skills as a routesetter, national and international level coach, and all-around nerd of rock climbing. His passion for climbing only matches his passion for coaching. Today's episode discussed everything from route setting, the 2021 Olympics, and the wonders and mystery of whiskey before this staple of the DFW climbing community moves on to Salt Lake City. 

This episode is with a Texas-born legend whom I greatly admire. Jeff Jackson is one of the most prolific route developers in American history. He has taught climbing and yoga throughout his life and was the Editor for Rock and Ice magazine. Currently residing in Hawaii, he’s developing crags when not teaching at a university. It was a joy to dive into how Texans have contributed to climbing and his passion for bolting.

David Gurman is a rock climber, design entrepreneur, data artist, and TED speaker/fellow. With twenty-five years of climbing, he has been present for some pivotal moments of climbing history and development. Currently, he is a Co-Founder and CPO of KAYA - The Climber's App. In today's episode David shares the history of KAYA, how to use the app, and new PRO features. This app will make you a better coach for yourself with self-evaluating features and by tracking progression on projects.

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Charles Ayoub went from gym climber to living in a van full-time to starting his own company, Tiny Nomad Conversions. His company assists people in building out their dream vans. Van life is often romanticized online, and many adventurers dream of the day they can transition their life onto wheels. Charles and I demystify the glamor and discuss the realities of van life and logistic complexities.

Boone Speed has shaped every facet of climbing. He has created ads for big brands, started one of the most significant climbing hold companies (Pusher), and influenced climbing culture through his creative vision. Grasshopper Climbing Systems, the official training wall of USA climbing, was built by Boone, and he is excited about the future of LED boards. Today's episode discusses climbing history, how Boone's creative endeavors pushed his career forward, and Texas limestone.

Dr. Len Necefer is a member of the Navajo Nation and the founder of NativesOutdoors. This outdoor company works with indigenous artists and athletes to create gear that supports outdoor recreation on tribal lands. Len and I discuss Native American lands, climbing access to these lands, and how the Native American community views the sport.

Sends and Suffers fam, allow me to introduce you to Marina Inoue. This tiny, tattooed, 5’2 stick of dynamite entered the climbing game “late”, picking up the sport at 26. But that hasn’t stopped this powerhouse from putting down some seriously impressive sends like Tomb Raider (5.13d) and Dark Age (V11). Marina has spent the last decade immersing herself in the outdoors, living on the road out of her van and setting her own schedule as a tattoo artist. In this episode Marina and I deep dive into topics like getting into your flow state, coming to terms with body image and body limitations, and the complexity of navigating the “good ol’ boys club” as a minority in male-dominated industries. Marina is one to watch — an ungovernable force indeed. Enjoy, y’all.

CATALYST: A GRANT FOR CHANGE

This is a great opportunity for those of you that know me personally I don't BS about opportunities that come your way. We are all trying to change the world to make it a better place but my friend help you make it so.

We love climbing, that’s obvious. When something brings us so much joy and color to life, it’s natural to want to ensure it’s available to everyone who wishes to experience the same joy.

The American Alpine Club (AAC) is committed to helping the climbing community become universally accessible to everyone. Introducing Catalyst: Adventure Grants for Change. This grant will provide BIPOC, LGBTQ+ individuals, and people with both seen and unseen disabilities the funds to help them overcome barriers, adapt to disabilities, and reach ambitious climbing goals. The Catalyst Grant will award over $20,000 to individuals and teams who face barriers in accessing the climbing community and identify with an underrepresented group.

While the AAC has always encouraged all people to apply for our grants, we recognize that underrepresented groups traditionally face more barriers in accessing the climbing community. The goal of the Catalyst Grant is to break down these barriers and ensure that these groups have access to resources that will help them pursue their climbing goals.

This grant supports all climbing disciplines including bouldering, sport climbing, trad, alpine, mountain running, ski mountaineering, peak bagging, or any other climbing endeavor.

The AAC has the resources and the reach to help remove barriers to all forms of climbing for teams across the country. By celebrating our differences while also exploring our common interests, we broaden our perspectives, strengthen our relationships, and grow our entire climbing community.

As a summer camper, John Brosler started climbing at Summit Carrollton (then Exposure). He became a member of the powerhouse youth climbing team, Team Texas, where he began speed climbing and never stopped. John has an instinctive drive to push his limits in competitions worldwide. He is passionate about pursuing his potential in the never-ending journey of training.

Devin Dabney, Kris Hampton, and I reminiscing about the soundtracks that influenced how we grew up, where we came from and who we are now. As we trip through our favorite jams, we also raise some serious questions about art and critical consumption. Listen-in as we discuss how the music we listen to tracks with our changing conceptions of race, gender and identity, as well as what it reveals about the communities we inhabit.

The Power Company Podcast connect with him on socials, or get yo’ self set-up on a training plan with The Power Company. Important points 

Meet Daniel, Kiera, and Nelson, three “dirt-baggers” living life full-time on the road. For these guys, home is a vehicle parked under wide-open skies… currently, in Moab, Utah. This, my friends, is van life.

We’ll give you the dirty truth on what it’s truly like to leave the creature comforts of home behind to pursue the mobile dream of living in the back of a van. Whether you’re riding in a spacious new sprinter van or out of the back of your old Subaru, there are endless ways to trick out your space for a life on the road. One thing we all agreed on — it’s the little improvements that make your mobile crash pad feel like home. For me, it was a mini-refrigerator. For Kiera, it’s a waffle maker… we all have our thing.

Just a couple of dirt-bags enjoying whiskey under the stars. Join in as we talk van living, ego conquering, and having reverence for all the brave souls stepping up to the plate to be out in the places they love doing the things they love, regardless of skill or what grade they climb. Our biggest takeaway? Get out there. Why?

“Because in the end, you won't remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain.” -Jack Kerouac

Get out there, y'all. Whether it’s a day trip, a weekend away, or the full-on commitment to dirt-bagging it out of the back of your car. Doing what you love is a privilege, and these outdoor spaces are for you. Hope you enjoy this episode of Sends & Suffers.

Jacob D. Bach is a Milwaukee-based climbing coach, passionate LGBTQ activist, outdoor guide, and talented performer. In today's episode, Jacob and I talk about diversity, respect, and acceptance in the outdoor industry. Being queer held Jacob back from sports, but now he leads the way for bringing acceptance to the gym and sets an example for the kids he works with. He loves getting outdoors and drops some beta for the Midwest climbing scene.

Today's episode is with self-made coach Kris Hampton, aka the Dr. Dre of Rock Climbing. Kris is the founder and coach of The Power Company and writes training plans for thousands of climbers around the world. He sent his first 5.14 and V11 in his 40's, proving his training brings results and that age ain't an excuse. Kris and I talk about what it takes to build a coaching career and break down the training tactics and mental games we use to make you all stronger, smarter climbers.

Ever wonder what it’s like to send a 55ft boulder… with no rope? My next guest would know. Epic high-baller, aspiring trad climber, and overall badass lady crusher Nina Williams has quite the climbing resume these days. Nina is one the few females to send V13, has stood on the podium at national competitions, and knows how to put down some serious outdoor sends. In this episode, we go deep into race and privilege in the climbing community and how the BLM and social movements have carried over to the gym and crag. We also talk mental game, coaching, and leadership. Her path from a young competition climber, to a highball crusher while coaching and earning a degree is seriously inspiring. Nina shares her goals for going into 2021, and we all hope it's going to be a better year.

Ep -15 Madison Stueve

If you have been on this earth for a while, you know that not all heroes wear capes. My guest is the man among mere mortals, aka the rest of us. Justin Partin is a badass climber who works in search and rescue, and the most challenging job of all is a dad. In this episode, we talk about how climbing came into his life and set him on the path that leads to us becoming best friends and his career.

check her out ya'll!

Welcome to the Sends And Suffers podcast. I am your host, Mario Stanley.

Sends And Suffers is all about type two fun. No matter how much suffering you endured on your journey, the send always outweighs the suffering. I am a rock climber so I a lot about climbing trips, coaching climbing, bing a climbing guide, and the outdoor ethos.

Climbing saved my life.  Climbing gave me an outlet that felt original. The community I grew up in didn’t believe black people did things like climb, and the climbing community I entered represented that fact 14+ years ago. I never had the luxury of caring whether I felt welcomed or not at climbing gym and crag if I wanted to rock climb. Luckily it was easier for me than others to adopt that “screw all y'all, I’m here” attitude because that was the reality of being a black man coming into your own in the ’90s. I am here because I want to be, and rock climbing brings balance and peace to the warring parts of myself.

Show note:

Sends and Suffers Podcast is a show about the ups and downs that come with every adventure and the adventure that daily life can bring to use. My goal on the show is to talk about the most recent or memorable adventure that you have had that was bitter and sweet.

Programs

Taylor Turman is local to the Fort Worth, Texas climbing community. Right when Taylor started getting good, she took a 30+ ft. fall and suffered some injuries. I was the first responder on the scene and am stoked she has recovered with a bigger passion for climbing than ever.

Today’s guest is Andres Macedo, a Dallas local hardman, gentle giant, and current client. He told me about an outdoor project - “Will the Wolf Survive?” in El Potrero Chico during our first lesson. This episode is the story of his preparation and eventual success.

Today’s episode is with Jenny Smith, a climbing partner, a friend of mine, and a badass woman. She is one of the most tenacious climbers I have met. We talked about her first outdoor trips, which she went BIG on and going to the Red River Gorge, Hueco Tanks, and Cowell, Arkansas.

Hello and Welcome to Sends And Suffers Podcast!

To kick off the podcast, meet my good friend Malik Barton. He’s a fellow coach who is an all-around killer climber. The Texas climbing community benefits from his motivating and encouraging nature. We discuss our love for Last Chance Canyon, and Malik shares what the canyon has taught him.