By Host Zara Korutz
New York-based host Zara Korutz has been in the media space for over a decade with brand expertise in luxury, fashion and arts. Zara earned an MA (with Distinction) in Fashion Critical Studies from Central Saint Martins in London and is now a PhD Fashion Studies researcher at Massey University. For more info, www.unbiasedlabel.com
Unbiased Label Sep 08, 2021
Tee Eben x Franklin Fresh: The Culture of Streetwear
Tee built streetwear brands in the U.S. from back in the day in the 1990s. He has always played a role in bridging culture from the early days of hip hop emergence. Tee's brand NEVER FADE focuses on marrying social agenda and design philosophy, with a focus on creating a label as an advocate for the global millennial generation. Franklin Fresh found his way to fashion as a stylist who partners with Trap Star as a brand collaborator. Franklin is also a musician and visual artist.
Follow Franklin Fresh's Spotify page HERE.
#fashion #streatwear #culture #hiphop #virgilabloh #music #musicandfashion
NYFW Special Episode: Adrian Alicea
This episode is a conversation with Adrian Alicea, Voguing Icon of the Red Era Ballroom and New York City fashion designer. Alicea will show his eponymous brand in NYFW on Sunday, September 10th at La Mama.
Alicea toured the world as a professional dancer alongside the legendary Willi Ninja including two electrifying performances in “Deep in Vogue” and “Waltz Darling” by the multi-talented Malcolm McClaren. You may remember the now iconic image of Alicea vouging the runway with Iman and Willi Ninja for Thierry Mugler in 1989. Alicea also modeled and danced the runway for Hermes, Giorgio Armani, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Gianfranco Ferre, Vivienne Westwood, and Patricia Fields to name a few. He has also been featured in Vogue around the world for his performing and fashion designs.
Adrian Alicea is a new romantic of romantic excesses. Creating a pirate-like fairy-tale of disguises, he walks a tightrope between ironic hedonistic inclination and highly serious commentary.
There is an insane carcinogenic, merciless narcissism. There is a deafening, endless shout of “gimme more!” – Earl Murray
A special shout out to Edwin Fontanez--it's because of your fashion show Bondages in 1989 that today, I met Adrian. Thank you also to Smile Design Gallery on 57th St. for the incredible studio space. We love the whole crew over there!
#NYFW #adrianalicea #deepinvouge #Voguing #Vogue #Newyorkfashion #fashion #NYCfashion #unbiasedlabelpodcast
David Curtis-Ring: Artist Maker of Wedgwood Armour for Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY SS24 Collection
David Curtis-Ring is a British artist and designer, based in London. He specialises in creating set design and sculpture for installation, film and performance. David is known for his collaborations with Craig Green, working alongside the designer, since the brand’s launch in 2013. He was production designer for Pink Floyd’s The Endless River film directed by Ian Emes and in 2020 he designed the multi-sensory installation Next Landscape for C.P. Company’s FW020. David graduated from Goldsmiths University in 2008 with a BA in Fine Art Textiles. His sculptures have appeared in Vogue, GQ, Dover Street Market and Harrods. While other collaborations include work with Nick Knight, Adidas, Champion, Moncler and Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey.
#DavidCurtisRing #Fashionsetdesigner #charlesjeffreyxWedgwood #wedgwood
Frank New: It's A Queer Barbie World
Barbie, the movie, is the much anticipated summer film of 2023! So, we had to join the Barbie conversation with Barbie Guru Frank New who is a New York-based Barbie collector and academic from the queer lens. Frank travels the globe sharing their Barbie research. Frank lives fearlessly out-loud with authentic fabulousness! Frank is the founder of fashion and event production company ManYourStyle. Frank received a Master of Arts in Costume Studies at New York University.
#barbie #queerbarbie #barbiethemovie
Kimberly Jenkins: Fashion Blueprint for Breaking Boundaries
This episode a conversation with Kimberly Jenkins who is a brilliant, boundary breaking woman and world-renowned fashion educator, consultant, and leading voice on fashion and race. Kimberly is the founder and CEO of Artis Solomon, a fashion consultancy firm, and founder of The Fashion and Race Database, a one of a kind learning platform that is supported by subscribing universities and museums globally. Most recently, she co-produced and hosted the podcast, "The Invisible Seam," in partnership with Tommy Hilfiger, highlighting the underrepresented contributions Black culture to fashion.
Kimberly who is based in New York—is a fashion boundary-breaking role model—a trailblazer who is pushing for change in fashion. For over a decade, Kim has been studying the impact of our clothes and how we express ourselves, through the lenses of politics, race, psychology and anthropology. Kimberly is best known for introducing the course, Fashion and Race, at Parsons, and for working as an education consultant for Gucci in Europe and Asia to support their efforts on design and cultural awareness. Kim’s important work has been recognized by many publications including Vogue, The Business of Fashion, The Financial Times, The Washington Post , The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, The Guardian, DAZED, i-D, W, and NYLON to name a few.
Please join me as I talk with Kim, an OG of Fashion Studies who is reshaping boundaries.
#kimberlyjenkins #fashionandrace #invisibleseam #fashionstudies
BONUS: Is secrecy still a relevant luxury fashion marketing tool?
This BONUS episode is a talk with host Zara Korutz on the current state of marketing and the luxury fashion industry in a post-pandemic world using Maison Margiela as a case study thread of debate. This talk isn't a super deep dive analysis but rather is meant to be a conversation starter so please share your thoughts on social media or on our website unbiasedlabel.com.
Host, Zara Korutz launched Unbiased Label podcast after earning her MA (with Distinction) in Fashion Critical Studies from Central Saint Martins in London (2020). She is now a Fashion Studies PhD Researcher at Massey University. Zara’s viewpoint sits at the intersection of industry and academia with over a decade of experience in the media space—including at The Washington Post—with brand expertise in luxury, fashion and arts.
#luxury #luxuryfashion #margiela #maisonmargiela #luxurymarketing
Dior Fall 2023 – Mumbai, India Fashion Show: A Review with Shriya Zamindar, Mukul Bhatia and Jebin Johny
This episode is a conversation with three Indian fashion voices — Shriya Zamindar, Mukul Bhatia and Jebin Johny — examining the Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2023 runway show that took place on March 31, 2023 at The Gateway of India in Mumbai. This fashion meets cultural celebration came 60 years after Dior first traveled to India to showcase the brand’s spring-summer 1962 couture collection by Creative Director, Marc Bohen.
— Guests —
Shriya Zamindar is the Fashion Features Editor for Vogue India. Shriya has also written for publications including Vogue Business, Grazia India, and 1Granary. Notably, Shriya wrote the words for Vogue India’s March-April issue cover story interviewing catwalk queen Naomi Campbell.
Mukul Bhatia, is an award-winning visual artist from India focused on sustainability, travel and fashion. Mukul has been featured in Forbes, The New York Times, GQ and TEDx, and winner of Cosmopolitan India’s 2020 Blogger Award for ‘Sustainable Fashion Influencer of the Year’.
Jebin Johny is a sustainable luxury fashion designer based in Kerala whose work features hand-painting and handloom fabric. Jebin launched his brand Jebsispar in 2015 at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. His designs have been featured in Vogue India, The Indian Express, The Hindu and The Hindu Metro Plus, and worn by Hindi film actresses including Sonam Kapoor, Kalki Koechlin and Vidya Balan.
— Show Reference Links —
The making of Dior Fall 2023 in India: https://youtu.be/bwIVOc-_3go
Dior Fall 2023 Show: https://www.youtube.com/live/BfxdKZvpG6s?feature=share
#christiandior #dior #vogueindia #mariagrazia #diorfall2023 #luxuryfashion
Finnegan Shepard: Boys, Boys, Boys
This episode is a conversation with Finnegan Shepard who is founder of Both& Apparel—a company that closed on one-million seed round and is pioneering non-binary fashion, starting with apparel for trans men. The company is powered by the belief that trans masculine, non-binary, and gender non-conforming people deserve gender joy through fashion.
On March 31, 2023, Both&, launched their first global advertising campaign photographed by non-binary photographer Lydia Garrett of creative agency WongDoody. This campaign launch coincided with Trans Day Visibility and promoted the labels new denim line.
The campaign is called “Boys, Boys, Boys” perhaps as a play on the phrase ‘boys will be boys,’ which is often used to describe gendered stereotypes of masculine heteronormative behavior, except in this case, instead of depicting cismen, the campaign uses transmen to define masculinity and sex appeal—a clear inspiration coming from famed images of the 1990s Calvin Klein’s underwear campaigns whose attractiveness was charged with classical ideas of traditional masculinity and whiteness. In the Both& Apparel campaign whiteness is replaced by ethnic diversity and the viewers gaze is displacing hypermasculinity by hypertransvisibility. The intention of the campaign is made explicit, it’s all about sex appeal and being desired.
Please join me as I talk with Finnegan via Zoom from his home in New Mexico. We talk about the growth of Both&, their global campaign, and dive into ideals of trans masculinity that no longer belong to cis men.
#transfashion #transmasculinity #fashion #genderjoy #both& #finneganshepard
Dana Thomas: What's the fashion news, kiddo?
This episode kicks off a new season and is a conversation with the legend Dana Thomas who is a world-renowned fashion author, journalist, podcast host, and leading voice on sustainability. Dana has been called “The Woodward and Bernstein” of the fashion industry because of her investigative style of reporting.
Dana’s intelligent reporting style comes from her journalism training at The Washington Post where she wrote for many sections including the Style section with fashion editor Nina Hyde along with former Executive Editor Ben Bradley who would stop by Dana’s desk and ask, “what’s the news kiddo?”
Dana’s work is focused on highlighting fashion change makers. She is the European Sustainability Editor for British Vogue, and hosts “The Green Dream,” a weekly podcast on sustainability, produced by Wondercast Studio. Dana wrote the screenplay for Salvatore: Shoemaker of Dreams, a feature documentary directed by Luca Guadagnino, which premiered at the Venice Film Festival in 2020. And in 2016, the French Minister of Culture named her a Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters.
In 2007, Dana published the New York Times bestseller, "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster". In 2015 she published “Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano”. And most recently, in 2019, Dana published “Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes”.
Please join me in conversation with Dana over zoom from her home in Paris as we share stories of working at The Washington Post, talk about her incredible career and body of work including her podcast the Green Dream as well as her books. And, of course, I get Dana’s thoughts on the state of fashion.
Sign up for Dana's Green Dream Newsletter here: https://www.thegreendream.studio/
THIS SEASON IS DEDICATED TO ANDREA MESSIMER-HENLEY (1972-2022). I MISS AND LOVE YOU, FRIEND!
#fashion #danathomas #fashionjournalism #sustainability #fashionsustainability #BritishVogue #The Washington Post #fashionpodcast
Imposter Syndrome x Fashion: Dr. Carolyn Mair
This episode is a conversation with Dr. Carolyn Mair who is a London based author, educator, speaker, consultant, Charted Psychologist and Fellow of the British Psychological Society.
In 2012, Dr. Mair developed the Psychology Department at London College of Fashion and created the world's first Psychology for Fashion Masters degrees (MA and MSc). In 2018, Dr. Mair published The Psychology of Fashion. The idea of 'fashion psychology' has now become a growing global phenomenon thanks to the original work by Dr. Mair who is constantly in the press all over the world including The Washington Post, Vogue Business, NBC News, WWD, The Observer, ELLE, The Guardian, Harper's Bazaar, and The Atlantic to name a few.
Follow Carolyn on social media, particularly Twitter @Carolyn_UK and Instagram @Psychologyforfashion
A heartfelt thank you to Soho Radio Studios in London.
CHANEL 2022/23 Métiers d'art – DAKAR Fashion Show: Review with Senegalese Fashion Designer Milcos Badji
This episode examines the Chanel 2022/23 Métiers d’Art runway show that took place on December 6, 2022 at the former “Palais de Justice” Hall in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa. Beyond cultural and artistic inspiration, I was curious to unpack this show, but given of my own limited Western perspective, I thought it most appropriate to seek answers from a local Senegalese who attended the show which led me to past Unbiased Label podcast guest Milcos Badji who is a Senegalese fashion designer from Dakar. The design ethos of Milcos is deeply connected to heritage with research at the center of his artistic process. Nio Far by Milcos is unisex and handmade brand, and orders can be placed on-line at https://www.niofarbymilcos.com.
Please join me as I talk with Milcos via zoom from his home in Senegal about his experience of attending the Chanel fashion show in Dakar. We discuss his thoughts and perspective on the show from the Senegalese lens including location, guests, music and fashion. I hope you find this conversation as enlightening as I did in terms of culture, history and perspective.
#Chanel #Dakar #Senegal #Fashion
African Fashion Journalist: Elvis Kachi
This episode is a conversation with Nigerian Fashion Journalist Elvis Kachi. Kachi has been published in many magazines and news outlets including Vanity Teen, BBC, Guardian, BusinessDay Nigeria, Essence, and Quartz to name a few.
His reporting focuses on conversations with fashion designers whose work is changing the stereotypical ideologies of African fashion and breaking gendered norms. Most recently, Kachi's work highlighted how transgender Nigerians could be jailed for cross-dressing if a proposed bill becomes law. The amendment – currently in parliament – would make it illegal for a person to wear clothes that do not match their gender assigned at birth.
This episode is published to coincide with African Fashion Week Season with Legos Fashion Week taking place on October 26-29, 2022. Please join me as talk with Elvis from his home in Lagos, Nigeria. We talk about his journey to becoming a fashion journalist, African fashion designers, and the restrictive Nigerian culture on gender and sexuality. If you love fashion journalism from the African perspective, then this conversation is for you.
Fashion Prose by Gaurav Monga
Gaurav Monga is a writer and teacher originally from New Delhi. He is the author of Tears for Rahul Dutta (Philistine Press, 2012), Family Matters (Eibonvale Press, 2019), Ruins (Desirepath Publishers, 2019), Costumes of the Living (Snuggly Books, 2020), My Father, The Watchmaker (Hawakal Publishers, 2020) and The English Teacher (Raphus Press, 2021). Gaurav's work has appeared in numerous literary magazines, including B O D Y, Fanzine, Juked, Tammy Journal, Spurl Editions, Queen Mob's Teahouse, Birkensnake amongst others.
Gaurav teaches English, German, literature, epistemology and creative writing, and has taught at schools and universities in India, Nepal, Switzerland, Dubai and the Czech Republic. Gaurav taught himself German to read the works of Franz Kafka, and is currently translating selected works of Robert Walser, Peter Bichsel and Paul Leppin from German to English. He is a member of an international art and lifestyle movement called Neo-Decadence.
Beau McCall aka "The Button Man"
This episode is a conversation with Beau McCall aka “The Button Man" who is a New York-based cultural tastemaker & visual artist that creates wearable and art by applying clothing buttons onto up-cycled fabrics, materials, and objects generating discussion on topics related to pop culture and social justice.
McCall has been featured in the NY Times, Associated Press, NPR, and L.A. Times. His visual and wearable art has been included in many exhibitions and is held in the permanent collection of public institutions and by private individuals including the Museum of Arts and Design (New York), Philadelphia Museum of Art (Philadelphia), Victoria and Albert Museum (London), The Museum at FIT (New York), to name a few.
In 2021, McCall released his debut artists’ book titled, REWIND: MEMORIES ON REPEAT, commissioned and published by SHINE Portrait Studio—that honors the legacy of ten of McCall’s deceased friends through collages composed of archival photos and images from his button artwork. The collages capture the late 1970s to the mid-1980s, from Philadelphia to New York, during the LGBTQ+ rights movement, the height of disco music and the AIDS crisis. In 2024, McCall will debut his first-ever retrospective titled, Beau McCall: Buttons On! at Fuller Craft Museum.
McQueen Vault: John Matheson
This episode is a conversation with John Matheson who is a London based Alexander McQueen enthusiast, archivist and owner of the Instagram account, @McQueen_Vault.
John has contributed to many fashion exhibitions, discussions and publications including Show Studio. Over the past two years, John has been working as a consultant on Alexander McQueen exhibitions with museums LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and NGV (National Gallery Victoria, Melbourne).
Please join me as I talk with John about his passion for McQueen, the history of his archiving and his contextual viewpoints on fashion. If you love Alexander McQueen, then this conversation is for you. I do hope you enjoy!
In conversation with Colleen Hill, "Reinvention & Restlessness: Fashion in the Nineties"
This episode is a conversation with Colleen Hill, Fashion Author and Curator at The Museum at FIT. Colleen holds an MA in Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice from FIT and is currently a PhD candidate at London College of Fashion. Her most recent exhibition Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s (2021) is on exhibit until April 17, 2022.
Colleen has authored or coauthored many books on fashion and contributed to numerous other publications including her latest book Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s (2021) which examines 'Nineties fashion--from grunge, to Clueless's Alaïa, to Margiela's new couture--is an essential reference point for contemporary style. This book, created in tandem with an exhibition at The Museum at FIT, documents the changing culture, attitudes, and creatives that ushered in our visual age' (Rizzoli).
In this talk, Colleen and I discuss her exhibition and book Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s, the art of curating, and workings of the Museum at FIT.
UNEDITED with Mukul Bhatia
This episode is an unedited talk that I recorded over the summer with my friend and life guru Mukul Bhatia. It's a raw and vulnerable conversation with my puppy Bijou barking in the background. I talk with Mukul from Bali about all the important topics that intersect with living in a Post-pandemic world including sustainability, fashion, consumerism, society, trauma, relationship, and personal growth.
Mukul Bhatia who is an award-winning visual artist from India based in Bali focused on sustainability, travel and fashion. Mukul has been featured in Forbes, The New York Times, GQ and TEDx, and winner of Cosmopolitan India’s 2020 Blogger Award for ‘Sustainable Fashion Influencer of the Year’.
This episode is dedicated to the legacy of Virgil Abloh (1980-2021) who sadly passed away this week at the young age of 41. 💔 Virgil was a prolific zeitgeist cultural communicator and forever left his footprint on the world. His visionary work intersected many spaces including art, media, fashion, design and music. He didn't prescribe to bias, boxes, labels or limits; but lived and created with freedom of thought that birthed a new cultural code rooted in acceptance, kindness and inclusivity.
Virgil left a legacy built by a superhuman work ethic filled with risk, failure, success, collaboration, accessibility, conviction, criticism, friendship, love, passion, vision and clarity. He opened doors and paved the way for future generations because he believed that his voice as a black man needed to be heard.
I had the privilege to hear Virgil speak during the 2018 Vogue Paris Fashion Festival and these are my notes from his talk:
Youthful outlook of Paris.
Design for a need to exist.
Transparent-shows who you are--Is harder and takes more time.
Transparency allows for people to make a connection. Creates a dialogue. Meeting someone half way.
Understand the ecosystem we live in.
Luxury is old word-new word is coveted!
Emotional connection is the NEW luxury!!!
Youthful approach with respect to Heritage.
Adapt to environment and not industry.
Image and text based culture.
People see when things are fake.
Biggest success is when organic happens!!
Advertising is about relevance and importance.
How do you create Desire?
Cutting corners cuts artistic vision.
Branding and iconography signifies history and importance.
Art & fashion collaboration.
CORE-has beating heart.
Experience over transaction.
Untraditional ideas may be relevant and update the industry.
What is exciting and relevant?
Thank you for dedicating your life to being a cultural change maker. The world desperately needed you, Virgil. Rest in peace.
BONUS: The Babushka Headscarf Style. A Symbol of a Cultural Revolution.
This bonus episode is a critical fashion talk by host Zara Korutz focused on the investigation of the babushka headscarf style trend by examining its cultural implications both historically and in contemporary context.
Additionally, Jacqueline Pham from the Asian Fashion Journal investigates the lack of representation of Asian plus-size models.
If you geek out over fashion and culture, then this talk is for you… Please engage with your thoughts afterwards on social media or with a personal voice note.
References available upon request.
Cover Photo: Gucci X Dapper Dan. Courtesy: https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/gucci-dapper-dan-collection
Michelle Obama's Official Make-up Artist: Carl Ray
Is a $200K Fashion Education at Central Saint Martins Worth It? I ask Aleks Mitrovic.
This episode is conversation between Zara Korutz and Aleksandar (Aleks) Mitrovic who both graduated with an MA from Central Saint Martins in 2020 during the pandemic. Zara graduated with an MA in Fashion Communication: Fashion Critical Studies and Aleks graduated with an MA in Fashion (womenswear pathway). Aleks spent the past 7 years at Central Saint Martins on the journey of becoming an elite fashion designer earning an MA, BA (Hons) and Foundation diploma in Fashion. He also received the Ye Lin Scholarship and Nina Stewart award. Aleks is currently is an Associate Designer at DIETY New York and has interned at Hillier Bartley, JACQUEMUS, J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou, and his designs have been featured in Vogue and 1 Granary. When launching his final MA collection during London Fashion Week 2020, Aleks expressed that in some ways the collection is a continuation of his pre-collection that was inspired by 1990’s dull office look. Aleks' final collection structurally stands on its own and is similar to the designer who was born in Serbia during the Bosnian Civil War era. To Aleks, “The MA is all about looking inside of yourself instead of looking at outside sources.” He continued, “They drum into you it’s all about your vibe and things you are interested in.” This sentiment reinforces the idea that becoming a fashion designer at CSM is rooted in self-expression and is a journey of discovery. Considered to be an elite global fashion training ground, Central Saint Martins (UAL) is an art and design school in London, England with a history dating back to 1896. The MA Fashion course, launched in October 1978 by Bobby Hillson, has birthed internationally renowned fashion designer ‘gods’ like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Craig Green, Sarah Burton, Kim Jones, Ricardo Tisci, Jonathan Saunders, and more. According to Business of Fashion, the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins, led by Fabio Piras, is ranked 1st in the world with a 11% acceptance rate, 56% international student population, 98% graduation rate, and 23:1 student teacher ratio. At Central Saint Martins, the fashion tuition for international students is as follows: MA is approx. $46,000, BA is approx. $95,116, and Foundation is approx. $25,315 (source: https://www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/central-saint-martins). Please join us for a conversation between two CSM MA graduates of the class of 2020 during the pandemic, fashion school as part of the fashion structural system, and discuss the reality of pursuing a career as a fashion designer.
The Art of Conscious Fashion Design: Jebin Johny
This episode is a conversation with Jebin Johny who is a sustainable luxury fashion designer based in Kerala, a state on the southwest Malabar Coast of India. Jebin launched his brand Jebsispar in 2015 at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. His designs have been featured in Vogue India, The Indian Express, The Hindu and The Hindu Metro Plus, and worn by Hindi film actresses including Sonam Kapoor, Kalki Koechlin and Vidya Balan.
Jebin's handwoven and handprinted cotton fabric designs are rooted in the cultural identity of his home, inspired by his family and tells the emotional stories of migrants. The ethos of Jebsispar is art and soul as reflected in the brand's ethical way of existing from design to manufacturing.
Please join us as we talk about the fashion system in India, Art of fashion design, culture of Kerala, and examine the importance of consciousness in fashion focused on sustainability and ethical practices.
Fashion No Filter: Simon Ungless
This episode is a conversation with avant-garde fashion legend Simon Ungless who is the Executive Director of the Fashion School at San Francisco's renowned Academy of Art University where he has a twenty-plus year tenure and was awarded an honorary Doctorate degree. His fashion academic approach is built around artistic first principles rooted in the passion to create, collaborate and above all, challenge the status quo. Ungless' own fashion brand When Simon Met Ralph reflects his signature bold designs and focuses on sustainable up-cycling that gives clothes new life.
In the early 1990s while studying at Central Saint Martins, Simon became friends and collaborators with schoolmate Lee McQueen. Simon's signature roadkill prints and multi-technique graphic patterns walked the runway of Alexander McQueen's prolific early collections including AW 1993 Taxi Driver, AW1994 Banshee, SS1995 The Birds, AW1995 Highland Rape, SS1996 The Hunger, and AW1996 Dante.
Global Editor, CNN Style: Fiona Sinclair Scott
In March 2020, CNN Style launched a new dedicated beauty section with coverage focused on "the expanding definition of beauty." In April 2021, CNN Style launched a new series called 'Hyphenated' exploring complex issues of identity among minorities in the United States.
This week's segment of The Asian Fashion Journal with Jacqueline Pham explores the Chinese luxury consumer goods market.
A special thank you to the amazing Will Fitzpatrick at Soho Radio Productions for sound engineering.
Starring Celebrity Hairdresser: Ted Gibson
Ted along with his husband and colorist Jason Backe opened the World's First Smart Salon in Los Angeles named Starring by Ted Gibson designed by architect Francisco Gonzalez Pulido.
In 2020, Ted and Jason launched The Worth Up Alliance Foundation which is a coalition of change agents, dream makers and emerging beauty entrepreneurs supporting the industry with education, coaching, mentoring, networking, and start-up capital grants.
Masculinity Redefined: Fashion Designer Tokyo James
This episode is a conversation with British-Nigerian Fashion Designer Tokyo James and American-Nigerian Photographer and Creative Director Mikey Oshai who is the man behind the brand's visual imagery. Tokyo's studio is based in Lagos and since the brand's launch in 2015, has taken the fashion world by storm with impeccably tailored designs, strong cultural meaning and intensity of storytelling which is re-defining the modern man with an unapologetic intersectional aesthetic of individual thought and identity. Tokyo has received global acclaim by Vogue, I-D, W, CNN African Voices, and Harper's Bazaar U.K. Recently, Mikey Oshai was featured in CNN Africa.
In partnership with Jaqueline Pham and The Asian Journal we are launching a new segment highlighting fashion through the lens of Asian culture. Please tune in after the conversation for intriguing fashion insights by Jaqueline reporting from Vietnam. Special thanks to Will Fitzpatrick at Soho Radio in London for sound production.
#tokyojames #lvmhprize #Nigerianfashiondesigner
The Psychology of Fashion: Dr. Carolyn Mair
Follow Carolyn on social media, particularly Twitter @Carolyn_UK and Instagram as Psychologyforfashion.
I Deserve Couture: Hanan Besovic
Season 2 kicks off with a conversation with fashion commentator Hanan Besovic a.k.a the Instagram handle "I Deserve Couture". Hanan holds the self-professed degrees of PhD in meme, Masters in throwing shade, and a minor in fashion.
The Fashion Archive: Odunayo Ojo
This episode is a conversation with Odunayo (Ayo) Ojo, a British-Nigerian, who is a London based fashion wonder boy that has taken the fashion world by storm with his critical point of view rooted in deep research. Ayo's free-thinking perspective has created a fanbase with over 70k subscribers on his YouTube channel-- The Fashion Archives. Currently, Ayo is a BA Fashion Journalism student at Central Saint Martins. He also writes for BOF and has launched his own publication The Fashion Archive Magazine. Please join me as I talk with Ayo about his Nigerian roots, fashion journey including becoming a YouTube fashion sensation, obsession for fashion, and academic life at Central Saint Martins. Connect: The Fashion Archive YouTube Channel IG: @fashionroadman @thefashionarchivemag
The Power of Fancy Dress: Dr. Benjamin Wild
Fancy Dress also known as Costume or Fancy Dress Costume is defined by Dr. Wild as a performative form of dress, imaginative and incongruous, work for a discrete occasion and limited time that disrupts the place of the individual within the social and political relationships of a specific community (2020, p. 1).
In this episode, we explore ideas of history and culture reflected in fancy dress costume both in society and on the runway.
Mykel C. Smith is a New York Fashion Cult Icon
This episode is a conversation with Mykel C. Smith whose New York based namesake creative agency is a think tank for all things fashion. In 2020, Mykel was featured in a CFDA article by Karyl Truesdale who described him as, "a most amazing and very grandiloquent creative who brings the drama to everything he touches!" Mykel has been in the fashion industry for over 20 years as an event producer, celebrity stylist, casting director, event planner and creative director.
Currently, Mykel is producing the S/S 2022 Cult of Individuality X HVMAN runway show called ASCENSION which takes place on Thursday, July 22, 2021 at the Cult Lab located in New York, NY. Cult of Individuality was founded in 2009 by founder and designer Ron Poisson and has forged a reputation as the Jeansmith rooted in badass rock and roll. The brand ethos is a community of people who beat to their own drum of individuality and identify as a misfit, outsider, dreamer, trail blazer, and contrarian. The global denim streetwear brand is all about quality and being a "Cult of One...The Cult of you."
Please join me as I talk with Mykel at his New York City home office just days before the Cult of Individuality Fashion Show.
Research & Heritage: West African Fashion Designer Milcos Badji
The design ethos of Milcos is deeply connected to heritage with research at the center of his artistic process. He uses a mud based fabric known as ‘Bògòlanfini’ (often referred to as Bògòlan) or mud cloth that gives his fashion designs cultural depth, rich in meaning and "the quintessence of authenticity".
The latest hand made collection of Nio Far by Milcos is named "Po Tolo" inspired by the Dogon tribe central to Malin in West Africa. The legends of the Dogon tribe lies in their unique ability to give precise locations of astronomical bodies and phenomena for centuries pre-dating modern science.
Nio Far by Milcos is unisex and handmade. Orders can be placed on-line at www.niofarbymilcos.com/ .
Fashion Critical Studies @ Central Saint Martins: Dr. Elizabeth Kutesko
Dr. Kutesko earned her PhD from the Courtauld Institute of Art under the supervision of Dr. Rebecca Arnold. Elizabeth's research interests are Latin American bodily practices and the intersections of fashion, cultural identity, representation and power.
This talk examines the idea of decolonisation and ideas of power and representation along with notions of popular cultural trends within the fashion industry.
Transmasculine Fashion Design: Finnegan Shepard
BONUS: The Dandy as Original Street Style Innovator
Dandyism's historical roots creates a myth of authenticated personal identification. The word “myth” is not an untruth but rather a complicated system that theorist Roland Barthes describes as a form of communication.
If you geek out over fashion theory, then this talk is for you… Please engage with your thoughts afterwards on social media or with a personal voice note.
Barthes, R (1957) Mythologies
Breward, C. (2016) The Suit. London: Reaktion Books.
Croll, J. (2015) Fashion that Changed the World. London: Prestel.
Lewis, S.P. (2017) Dandy Lion. First edition. New York, N.Y: Aperture.
Meinhold, R. and Irons, J. (2014) Fashion Myths. Bielefeld: Transcript Verlag.
Musgrave, E. (2019) Sharp Suits. GB: Pavilion.
Rocamora, A and O’Neill, A (2008) ‘Fashioning the Street: Images of the Street in the Fashion
Simmel, G. (1905) “Fashion” International Quarterly, 1,22, pp. 130-155
Woodward, S (2009) ‘The Myth of Street Style’, Fashion Theory, 13, 1: 83 – 102
Cover Art Photo of Dandy Wellington By Julia Bahlsen
A Gay Baby Boomer's Journey to Out and Proud: Ken Regnier
This episode is a conversation with Ken Regnier who came out as an openly gay man at the age of 28 in 1991. Being raised Catholic in Aurora, IL, a mid-west manufacturing suburb outside of Chicago, the pressures to conform to a straight existence in society prevented him from living his authentic self. Ken shares his personal journey of moving away from his hometown in order to live his true identity as an openly gay man. His story reveals trials of self-acceptance, heartaches of loss, and triumphs of love. Ken currently lives in Washington, D.C. with his husband Carl and double-doodle dog Ollie.
London Underground Fashion Factory: Tee Eben
The ethos of the Never Fade Factory is to incubate and accelerate emerging talent by providing free work space and commercial opportunity to showcase their art fostering a knowledge based ecosystems of support, teaching and sharing human resources within the creative industries. This philosophy creates brand collaborations between emerging brands and corporate partnerships focused on tech and sustainability.
Please join us for an on-location conversation that took place on a sunny Saturday in the window of the Never Fade Factory located on Old Compton Street where we discuss Tee's journey of being the only black owned business in Soho and examine fashion from a zeitgeist point of view including circular fashion and the Factory's #swapfactory partnership with Lablaco.
Success and the City: Bruce Weldyn
Recently, Bruce completed an Instagram Vlog project called '75 Success Secrets in 75 Days'--daily conversations with guests on topics based on the book 'Do The Right Thing Do It All The Time: 75 Success Secrets Listed for Fast Reference by Frank Leigh (2020).
Join us as we talk about the reflection of Bruce's 75-day journey as he shares his secrets to success in life, business, and in the city or wherever you may live.
The Bronx Gender-Free Fashion Style: Victor Lopez
As told to VoyageLA, Victor says, "as a young boy from the Bronx. I have never struggled when it came to style and fashion. I remember when I was younger, the kids at school would always ask me questions of 'where did you buy this?' For some reason, I always felt quite good when that happened. As I got older, I become more driven reading magazines like Vibe and XXL where I got most of my style from."
Please join us as we talk about the cultural influence of the Bronx on fashion, 90's Hip-hop, and the art of styling men in gender-neutral clothing.
The Fashion Battle of Versailles: Scott Schiavone
Emotions in Your Clothes: Lucy Love
Lucy's meditation philosophy is a "daily practice of tuning-in that allows you to recharge your body and mind while creating space to move from habitual living to inspired being." Please join us as we talk about what meditation is as a practice, fashion as a reflection of your internal light, the power of love to heal, and living in your purpose.
Cosmopolitan India's 2020 Sustainable Fashion Influencer of the Year: Mukul Bhatia
Please join us as we talk about India, the love of sustainable fashion, honest curiosity in gloablised culture, and art of boundless living.
Modern Slavery in the U.K. Fashion Textile Industry: Olly Kennedy
Recently, the Guardian announced that "the UK government is considering the introduction of a clothing trade adjudicator, who would monitor large retailers’ relationships with their suppliers. A former director of Labour Market Enforcement, Matthew Taylor, has also backed the concept amid fears that voluntary measures have failed to make substantial improvements to pay and working conditions in the fashion industry. The issue has been highlighted in the past year by revelations about conditions in the Leicester clothing factories supplying the online fashion group Boohoo as well as difficulties for overseas suppliers as orders were cancelled because of the global Covid pandemic (Source: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2021/apr/22/uk-considers-clothing-trade-adjudicator-tackle-labour-abuses-working-conditions-mps)."
"The U.K. Modern Slavery Act will give law enforcement the tools to fight modern slavery, ensure perpetrators can receive suitably severe punishments for these appalling crimes and enhance support and protection for victims. It received Royal Assent on Thursday 26 March 2015 (Source: gov.uk/government/collections/modern-slavery-bill)."
The act will:
consolidate and simplify existing offences into a single act
ensure that perpetrators receive suitably severe punishments for modern slavery crimes (including life sentences)
enhance the court’s ability to put restrictions on individuals where it’s necessary to protect people from the harm caused by modern slavery offences
create an independent anti-slavery commissioner to improve and better coordinate the response to modern slavery
introduce a defence for victims of slavery and trafficking
place a duty on the secretary of state to produce statutory guidance on victim identification and victim services
enable the secretary of state to make regulations relating to the identification of and support for victims
make provision for independent child trafficking advocates
introduce a new reparation order to encourage the courts to compensate victims where assets are confiscated from perpetrators
enable law enforcement to stop boats where slaves are suspected of being held or trafficked
require businesses over a certain size to disclose each year what action they have taken to ensure there is no modern slavery in their business or supply chains
BONUS: Fashioning the 'Camp' Superman Body
Blockchain Basics Part 2: Maxim Silaev
Blockchain Basics Part 1: Maxim Silaev
Personal Connection to Culture x Fashion Part 2: Rabi Yansané
Please join us for part 2 of a 2 part conversation talking about the beauty of being a fashion outsider, the art of being a cultural bridge, and the importance of acknowledging the artisan and the culture.
Personal Connection to Culture x Fashion Part 1: Rabi Yansané
Please join us for part 1 of a 2 part series conversation talking about the art of wanderlust, the beauty of discovering your purpose, the personal joy of fashion, and reflections of life.
In Talks with Fashion Podcaster Danielle Radojcin
Please join us for a casual conversation discussing Danielle's career as a fashion journalist and her wisdom on success, thoughts on culture and 1990s subcultures, and ideas surrounding fashion in the contemporary world.
Black Culture Matters: Christian Benjamin
Fashion Think Tank: Doris Domoszlai-Lantner and Dr. Sara Emilia Bernat
Doris is a New York-based fashion historian and archivist. She holds an M.A. in Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), and a B.A. in History and East European Studies from Barnard College, Columbia University. She is a regular author for academic journals and publications, as well as speaker at international conferences, including Oxford University, and the University of Lille, France. Doris has founded and developed several private and corporate fashion archives, and is currently the Archives Manager at one of the world’s largest manufacturers of trims and accessories.
Sara is a sociologist brand strategist, and holds a Ph.D. from the Humboldt Universitat-Berlin in Sociology. Her work examines sustainability in luxury and fashion, while splitting her time between Europe and the United States. She graduated with a B.A. in Communications from the American University of Paris. Subsequently, she earned an M.PS. in Branding from the School of Visual Arts in NYC. In tandem with her research, Sara advises private and public organizations on strategic branding and development.
Join us as we talk about the importance of a fashion think tank, explore how Fashion Forward is strategically impacting change within the complex global fashion system, and dive into how change happens when you unite industry and academia.
For more information on Fashion Forward, please go to www.fashionforward.io/.